May 28, 2014

Nawlins.

Have you ever found something so amusing that you laughed until you cried, only to receive blank stares when you tried to recount it for someone else?





That is exactly how I'm afraid my trip to New Orleans would come across in writing. I'd work too hard trying to describe sprinting through the city to get away from an angry street performer or singing crowd-requested songs a cappella after convincing them that we were professionals, and you would just shake your head, not quite getting it, but push through the post for the pictures.

So, I'll just share the more lovely parts. Turns out The Big Easy is quite charming once you manage to get your feet away from soppy Bourbon Street.

Here's the cast of characters:

Stacie (the one who loves dragons)


Melissa (the one who loves New Orleans)


Cassandra (the one who loves naps)


Kyla (the one who loves rompers)



And together, it turns out that we're a bit of a recipe for mayhem.

Because New Orleans is a just a seven hour trip from ATL, we voted to avoid the hassle of air travel and the world's busiest airport by climbing into the car early on Saturday morning, loading up on caffeine, Chick-Fil-A, and today's pop hits, and heading West. I've been to the city once before, but it was a drive-through-the-night, post-hurricane trip for some relief work, and so the experience was completely different. I was excited to see it again; this time alive.

A stop for breakfast + coffee at the very first CFA
My backseat companion(s)

As you get closer and closer to the city, the landscape is different from anything to which I'm accustomed. Our trip took us through four states where you transition from wooded highways to long bridges stretching over boggy swamplands before eventually hitting the wide-open gulf.




And then, five songs on repeat, two bathroom stops, and one very long conversation later, you're suddenly there.






We drove through areas where reminders of Katrina were still very present.



We eventually arrived at our perfect little abode for the weekend, right in the heart of Uptown. Mel found the spot on airbnb and I highly, highly recommend it for anyone looking to visit for the weekend. Benjamin is an absolute champ of a host (and a Hoosier!), and it's situated within walking distance of St. Charles Avenue, Magazine Street, and Audubon Park - the location really couldn't be any better. The place was affordable, clean, and safe, and there was plenty of room for the four of us and all of the bags girls seem to need anytime they leave the house.








We were obsessed with the giant, colorful rugs that covered every visible floor space. So much character.



Our first order of business was to get tidied up and then venture out for food and face painting. In that order.

So, eventually, off we set.



We did a little window shopping first.


And a little house shopping second.





I'm in love with this little outdoor space we found - isn't it perfect?


We eventually sort of tumbled into a truly terrible little restaurant that advertised seafood and attacked the weekend's first big plate of oysters.


Drowning in cocktail sauce.


Oysters were standout; the service, not so much. Melissa pointed out the "mirror twin" oysters - just like my brothers!


As tourists desperate for anything remotely authentic, we easily fell victim to the "Taste of Nawlins" plate: Red beans and rice, seafood gumbo, creole jambalaya, shrimp creole, and creole okra gumbo. I couldn't begin to tell you what is what, but I can tell you that everyone had a different favorite. It was delicious, but I wish everything had been about five times spicier.


After our light "snack," we meandered on down to the French Quarter with all of its colors and iron balconies and distinct sounds and smells. I've heard people say that New Orleans is one of the few places in the States that makes you feel as if you've left the country, and that's absolutely true. Everything about it is so unique and full of hints of somewhere else. Not of anywhere particular - but certainly not here.





The tiniest little tourist
Our pace picked up because Stacie was on a mission to find the face painter she'd visited the year before. The woman wanted - needed - a dragon on her face. And we wouldn't rest until she got one.



Bingo.

"We came here, right here, last year." Please look at his face.
 And get one she did.

Fire-breathing, at that.


The rest of us decided to go for it, as well, and ended up with very liberal variations of what we'd requested (keep in mind that I asked for a subtle cheetah print). I'll send a $5 check to the person who can correctly guess what Cassandra's face paint is supposed to be...


In the end, though, face painting is the equivalent of the bachelorette sash - you get a lot of attention, and everyone uses it as an excuse to spark a conversation. I would absolutely do it all over again, and I'm still finding flecks of glitter on my body.

CafĂ© du Monde is a New Orleans institution. It has been in the same location for over 150 years and is open 24/7 (save Christmas and hurricanes). Chances are that you've heard of it, and for good reason.  The little beignets really are that amazing, and served with a cafe au lait that's significantly more milk than coffee and a side of marching brass band, it is the perfect little pick-me-up just as you start to feel sluggish mid-evening.



The rest of the night was a giant walkabout through the city. The highlight was a stop at the Frenchmen Art Market on a street of the same name. Quirky little booths lined a space topped off with strings of lights, and the sounds of Biggie Smalls filled the warm night air. Eclectically perfect.





We were particularly enamored with the glowing furniture that sits in the center of the open air venue and spent a good portion of the night chatting with anyone who happened to plop down next to us: young couples, old couples, boys from overseas...everyone was different, but everyone was happy.

Our plans to stay out exploring all night were foiled by exhaustion, so we ended the night with quesadillas that I may well remember for the rest of my life. Pineapple, pork, pico...je suis tombé en amour. I fell in love.

And it was fine, because tomorrow was coming.

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